
On the way back from the US yesterday we stopped off at Marynissen winery in Niagara on the Lake. We have been buying from the for years and regarded them as something of a benchmark for quality and value for Bordeaux style blends. About a year ago the family sold out to a Chinese consortium. It's now all very corporate. Despite recognising us, the staff member we dealt with apologetically explained that she would have to charge us for tasting. In my book that's fine for bus loads of tourists but a big no when one is dealing with regular customers who buy significant quantities of wine. Sadly the wines were rather disappointing too and the prices have been hiked. We handed over our $3 and left. I doubt we will be back. This is increasingly the way in Niagara on the Lake and St. David's. It's becoming the Napa of the Canadian wine industry. Thankfully up on the Beamsville Bench smaller, independent wineries still dominate and one can still do business in the traditional way. It's not yet impossible to find that in Niagara on the Lake. We visited Palatine Hills after Marynissen and they were fine and their wines were fairly priced. If you are down that way heck out their 2010 Cabs and Merlots.
Note for non-locals:
The Niagara wine region really has two distinct sub-regions. The flat clays and gravels near the Niagara River and along the lake produce good Cabernet and Merlot. Cabernet franc is especially distinctiv. there's also a lot of Vidal grown for ice wine and some decent Chardonnay. The Beamsville Bench is higher ground sitting on a limestone escarpment. depending on orientation and depth of soil micro-climates vary a lot but, in general, it's the place to look for aromatic whites such as Riesling and Gewürtztraminer. There's also Pinot Noir, Gamay and the local specialty, Baco noir, which can make a lovely smokey, brambly red. For some reason the low lying areas have been overwhelmingly colonised by large, often, foreign companies while up on the bench it's still mostly family owned operations.